I started to tailor some men’s clothing and I was inspired by Doctor Who Classic. As a first project I chose the Fourth Doctor’s (Tom Baker) Victorian shirt with the cutout collar. In Part 1 I wrote about my research and here I will describe my construction method and show you the results.


The nice thing about this Victorian shirt is that you can construct the whole pattern with just a few measurements. I added a picture of my construction instructions. My own measurements (ca. EU size 38-40) are filled in, but I also wrote down how to get these measurements.

For the collar I tried different versions and in the end chose the one curved downwards. This collar is rather close-fitting around the neck on the bottom and flares out a bit at the top. Like this it develops wrinkles.

Theoretically it would be possible to cut the sleeve rectangular if the your fabric is very soft and flowing. My fabrics are all a bit stiff so I made the sleeve a bit more close fitting around the upper arm. This makes the arm more narrow and longer and at the wrist the sleeve is puffed nicely. This also balances out the low sleeve set-in seam.

Generally all cut parts except the body and sleeves are interfaced with vliesline. But as soon as I get hold of some horsehair crinoline I want to try that as well.

Collar versions

Collar versions

Shirt pattern

Shirt pattern


First I used an ivory linen fabric. This basically worked very well, but I used a red marker on the interfacing and unfortunately you can see it through the fabric. So the moral of the story: be good and always use your tailor’s chalk, even if a marker is easier to use. 😉

Then I made a black version. Black is just suitable on all occasions. On both shirts I made the buttonholes by hand. I also realized that you can wear the collar in different ways. Obviously as a standup collar, like the Doctor in the series. But if you fold down the tips it looks a lot like a classical Victorian collar. And you can also wear it opened.

The material for a white shirt is already laid out. This will be the most accurate version. I just wanted to practice before I started. And I’m also thinking about making a fitted version with modern sleeves with a rounded head and set in a cutout. I like the old-fashioned rectangular cut, but it results in a very loose shirt of course.